Desserts n°22 sep 19 à fév 2020
Desserts n°22 sep 19 à fév 2020
  • Prix facial : gratuit

  • Parution : n°22 de sep 19 à fév 2020

  • Périodicité : semestriel

  • Editeur : L.A. Lifestyle

  • Format : (210 x 270) mm

  • Nombre de pages : 44

  • Taille du fichier PDF : 4,0 Mo

  • Dans ce numéro : de la matière brute au chocolat.

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CHOCOLATE TRENDS & NEW KNOW-HOW Cocoa grounds Originally from Mexico, like vanilla, of which fruit goes so well with cocoa, the cocoa tree was transplanted into Africa and started a spectacular development there. At the cost of intensive agriculture, Africa provides for 70% of the world production of cocoa. The Forestero variety, of which the Ivory Coast is the main producer, produces a cocoa with intense and bitter aromas, with little subtlety. Offshore in the Indian Ocean and on the island of Madagascar, or in Java, grows the Criollo variety. This is a botanic variety comparable to what Arabica is to coffee  : more subtle, more powerful and more delicate at the same time. Its colour is recognisable among all others  : more red than black, with elegant aromas, little tannin and astringency. Moving your finger towards Central America, Trinidad, Belize, Haiti, Ecuador and, to the south, towards Brazil and Peru, you will come across countries in which the proximity between banana trees, mango trees and cocoa trees on traditionally steep grounds give the cocoa beans exotic and specific organoleptic characters. Milky pleasures It remains that the chocolate of our childhood, the ultimate madeleine, is prepared with sugar and milk. Among the successful regressive creations ; the P’tit Beurre by Vincent Guerlais, created in 2008. In tribute to the traditional biscuits of his region of Nantes, the biscuits are covered with a layer of chocolate and garnished with praline and chips of Breton shortbread. Fans of Pascal Lac in Nice will succumbto his filled bars such as the Gianduja, coated with black chocolate. The Gianduja, a classical Italian recipe made of hazelnut praline, owes its smoothness to a fine grinding and to the addition of milk chocolate, enhanced by caramelised chips of hazelnuts. As a forerunner in the same spirit, Pierre Hermé had imagined La cerise sur le gâteau as early as 1993  : a Dacquoise biscuit with crunchy hazelnuts, crispy praline, fine leaves of chocolate milk, ganache and Chantilly, all coated with a shell of milk chocolate. The entremets and its casket have been designed in cooperation with the designer YannPennor’s, the first of a long series of cooperation between the two artists. ENGLISH TEXTS GOURMET INTERVIEW — 32 — JULIA VIGNALI THE ALL SWEETNESS TV HOST From Miss Weather forecast to Meilleur Pâtissier through Les Maternelles, Julia makes the delights of the shows she presents. Her guiding thread ? Gentleness, whether speaking of childhood or with the greatest pastry chefs. Encounter with a confirmedgourmand who, from her Italian origin, keeps a particular tenderness for transalpine dolce ! The place of gourmandise in your life ? Very important ! I am a very gourmand person and I feel bad in half-measures. I therefore have to contradict my nature sometimes to better indulge later on ! A sweet souvenir of childhood ? Italian ice-creams that we took on the seaside in Juan-les-Pins where we went on holidays with my parents to see my grand-mother. A favourite moment ? Christmas meals are always magical culinary moments and nice to share between the family. The choice of the menu and the whole preparation where everyone helps out, preparing the toasts together, decorating the table… And the choice of the Yule log is essential of course ! 42 What touches you with pastry chefs ? I like passionate and entrepreneurial people. These are traits of character that one often meets among pastry chefs and artisans. Cyril Lignac, for example, whom I regularly see since I present Le Meilleur Pâtissier, is a relentless worker and I respect this enormously. An anecdote concerning the sweet world ? The first time I saw Pierre Hermé, I understood that the world of pastry was becoming my world. It was like meeting Barack Obama when you enter politics ! Amateur and professional pastry chefs lost all their means in front of him because they were so impressed ! A house dessert ? My level is rather mediocre, a bit less, however than when I started Le Meilleur Pâtissier three years ago. But I have a passion for home food processors and I take advantage of weekends in my country house to use them and to test dessert recipes. Not long ago, in just one weekend, I made a delicious lemon sorbet and a … failed … tarte Tatin ! A sin to share ? The tube of sweet condensed milk of my childhood and chestnut cream. Snacking or tea-break ? Tea break… when skiing ! With crêpes, quatre-quarts and hot chocolate, a must as far as I am concerned ! With the quasi magical childish thought that everything will disappear from my body as soon as I put my skis on the next day ! Your fetish flavour ? Pistachio ! A dessert in particular ? Impossible to choose  : Pavlova and Mont Blanc ! NEWS — Le Meilleur Pâtissier on M6. AUTUMN - WINTER 2019 - 2020
ACHERER ANDREAS AGNELLET PATRICK ALLAMIGEON JÉRÔME ALVAREZ DANIEL AOKI SADAHARU BALAGUER ORIOL BANNWARTH MICHEL BAUD JOËL BAUMANN ÉRIC BELIN MICHEL BELLANGER VIANNEY BERGER XAVIER BERNARDÉ NICOLAS BESSE BERNARD BIASETTO LUIGI BLANCHARD YANN BOUILLET SÉBASTIEN BROCARD SÉBASTIEN CALDERON CHRISTOPHE CASSEL FRÉDÉRIC CHARTIER ALAIN CURLEY WILLIAM DAMON CLAIRE DARCIS JEAN-PHILIPPE DE OLIVEIRA JÉRÔME DE ROUW ARTHUR DUCHÊNE LAURENT DUCOBU MARC DUPUY PASCAL ESCOBAR ÉRIC GALLA FABRIZIO GALLOYER MICHEL GELENCSER PATRICK GEORGELIN MAËLIG GILG THIERRY GMEINER VOLKER RÉPERTOIRE RÉPERTOIRE RELAIS DESSERTS AROUND THE WORLD SUIVEZ-NOUS SUR www.relais-desserts.net GUILLET LUC GUILMET ALBAN GUERLAIS VINCENT BUISSON OLIVIER GRANGER FRANÇOIS KAWAGUCHI YUKIHIKO 190204PubBellouet210x90-RelaisDessert_Mise en page 1 04/02/19 11:39 Page1 HEINEMANN HEINZ-RICHARD MOUTARLIER DAMIEN HERMÉ PIERRE HÉVIN JEAN- PAUL HUBERT PIERRE JOUVAUD MAÏE & PIERRE KAMM MATHIEU KANEKO YOSHIAKI 43 KAWAMURA HIDEKI KRAUS JOHN LAC PASCAL LARHER ARNAUD LE DANIEL LAURENT LENÔTRE MANNORI LUCA MARQUET ARNAUD MASSARI IGINIO MATYASY DENIS MORENO MIGUEL MULHAUPT THIERRY OBERWEIS JEFF OIKAWA TAIHEÏ OTSUKA YOSHINARI PAYARD FRANÇOIS PELLÉ LIONEL PERNOT CÉDRIC PETIT REYNALD PIGNOL JEAN- PAUL PILATI DOMINIQUE PROOT BERNARD & JAN RAUX LIONEL RAYNAUD JEAN- MICHEL REBERT DANIEL RINALDINI ROBERTO ROUSSEL CHRISTOPHE ROUX ALAIN SÈVE RICHARD TERAI NORIHIKO TORREBLANCA JACOB TROTTIER AURÉLIEN TUGUES JORDI VALIER MARCO VERGNE ÉRIC Bellouet Conseil WITTAMER PAUL ZANIN ROLAND Depuis 30 ans au service des professionnels École Gastronomique Bellouet Conseil 304/306, rue Lecourbe - 75015 Paris Tél.  : 01 40 60 16 20 - Fax  : 01 40 60 16 21 e-mail  : bellouet.conseil@orange.fr www.ecolebellouetconseil.com BELLOUET CONSEIL



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