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technique. Présenté au SIHH, le Sphérotourbillon de Jaeger-LeCoultre est une révolution mécanique qui permet une meilleure précision et ce, quelle que soit la position de la montre sur le poignet. De son côté, le Double Rotor, une exclusivité de Perrelet, trouve une interprétation inédite grâce à une nouvelle collection au design contemporain. D’autres, plus pragmatiques, s’adaptent au mode de vie de leurs clients. En privilégiant la fonction GMT, Bulgari ou Rolex savent qu’elles satisferont hommes d’affaires et globe-trotteurs de luxe, qui passent d’un continent à l’autre et vivent sous plusieurs fuseaux horaires.

-/ The watch industry looks all set for another record year, with Baselworld figures clearly indicating that the manufacturers can be confident about the future. Following a historic 2011 that saw exports zoom up 19.2%, professionals, journalists and public crowded the alleys of the world’s top watch and jewellery show. The exhibitors’ smiling faces spoke volumes. On the wholethis year’s show was somewhat understated but nevertheless some manufacturers had surpassed themselvesto thrill the fans. The Asian markets, in particular the Chinese, are still to be won over, so we celebratethe Year of the Dragon through watches charged with symbolism : Cartier, Perrelet, Piaget and Blancpain have all paid their tributesto this creature of legend.

ARTISAN KNOWHOW AND COMPLICATIONS GALORE
Many a watchmaker choseto flag up their roots and genetic heritage. Zenith has expanded its Pilot range, Patek Philippe flaunts all its considerabletechnical expertise, Dior claims the inverted calibre as a trademark, and Hublot endlessly reinvents its signature house style for every taste and all markets ! This manufacturer, headed by the insatiable Jean-Claude Biver, drew alleyesto its presentation of the world’s most costly watch, the Five Millions blazing with diamonds. Dazzling the public, with either gemstones or movements, is the manufacturers’ credo. Boucheron, Graff and Piaget light up their showcases with fabulous jewellery watches, while others show off their artisan expertise by either honouring the artistic crafts, as Vacheron Constantin, or pushing back thetechnical boundaries. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Spherotourbillon presented at the SIHH represents a revolution in watch mechanics as it means greater accuracy no matter what position the watch is in. Perrelet’s exclusive Double Rotor has been given a brand new interpretation via a new contemporary collection. Others have more pragmatically chosen to adapt to their clients’ lifestyles. By focusing on the GMT function, Bulgari and Rolex know they willattract business people and jet-setters who whizz from continent to continent and livetheir lives in several time zones.

SÉDUIRE LES FEMMES…
Et si la nouvelle cible avait changé de genre ? Faith Popcorn, grande papesse destendances marketing, place 2012 sous le signe du « She change » et rappelle que les Jemmes gèrent près des deux tiers de l’argent de la consommation. Des prévisions qui n’échappent pas aux manufactures, qui n’hésitent plus à se lancer dans une opération séduction. Ainsi, Patek Philippe ou de Grisogono mettent un point d’honneur à ouvrir les grandes complications aux dames. Chez Hublot, les boîtiers masculins, qui séduisent la gent féminine, s’affinent et se déclinent detoutes les couleurs pour s’accorder à la garde-robe. 2012 sonne d’ailleurs l’année de deux grands anniversaires pour l’horlogerie féminine. Chanel équipe sa Première d’un tourbillon volant pour souffler ses 25 bougies et Breguet célèbre deux événements : les 200 ans de la livraison de la première montrebracelet pour Caroline Murat, reine de Naples, et les 10 ans du lancement de la nouvelle collection féminine… tout simplement baptisée Reine de Naples !

SEDUCING THE LADIES
But perhaps the new target market is Jeminine. Faith Popcorn, high priestess of marketing trends, says 2012 is the year of She-change, reminding us that women now control almost two thirds of consumer spending. Her forecasting hasn’t escaped the watch manufacturers, now quick to launch charm offensives. Patek Philippe and de Grisogono make it a point of honour to offer women advanced complication watches, while Hublot is refining its masculine watch cases, which women love, and bringing them out in colours to match every wardrobe. And 2012 marks two great anniversaries of Jemininetimewear. Chanel has equipped its Première with a flying tourbillon to mark the watch’s 25th birthday. Breguet celebratestwo events this year : the bicentenary of the first wristwatch, made for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, and the 10th anniversary of the launch of its women’s collection christened… Reine de Naples.

1-2-3 1-3 Record d’affluence à Baselworld, dont le site révélera un nouveau look en 2013 après travaux. 2 La Peripheral Double Rotor signée Perrelet.

© Baselworld

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