Omega AquaTerra une véritable révolution en termes de design. Par leur texture, leur grain, leurs couleurs, les matériaux high-tech permettent de créer des effets esthétiques inédits qui changent l’impact visuel des montres. UN NOUVEAU COMPOSITE SIGNÉ PANERAI Les matières en vedette, cette année, sont le titane, mais aussi la céramique, qui a fait une percée fracassante. Le carbone est aussi utilisé, notamment le carbone forgé, ultra-résistant et léger. Le silicium a permis des avancées spectaculaires dans la conception des mouvements. Il permet d’en limiter l’usure, mais aussi de faire l’économie de leur lubrification. Nombre d’horlogers ont ainsi conçu des échappements en silicium et Breguet a mis au point un nouveau spiral révolutionnaire, qui équipe cette année un Tourbillon Tradition. Omega a monté un spiral en silicium sur son Aqua Terra Annual Calendar. Parmi les autres matériaux utilisés : le caoutchouc, le palladium, le zalium, mais aussi des traitements de surface : le PVC et le DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon), autolubrifiant et résistant à l’usure abrasive, adhésive et corrosive. Cette année, l’événement a été créé par Panerai. L’horloger italien a lancé un nouveau composite exclusif, issu d’une technologie inédite. Employé jusqu’ici dans l’aéronautique et la fabrication de pièces détachées de voitures et de motos, il résulte d’un processus électrochimique de céramisation de l’aluminium qui lui donne des caractéristiques uniques. Il est ainsi plus dur et plus léger que la céramique courante, l’acier et le titane. Sa dureté lui permet en outre de subir des géométries et des façonnages complexes. Quant à son inertie, elle permet de conserver dans le temps sa structure et son aspect. Panerai peut ainsi proposer une Radiomir Composite Marina Militare 8 jours, 47 mm, d’ores et déjà collector ! Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix Panerai Radiomir Composite Marina Militare In the beginning there was gold and platinum, the noble materials out of which artistic watchmakers sculpted exceptional timepieces. Being very difficult to work, platinum was mainly reserved for rare watches, one-offs or limited editions. Then came steel. Initially distained by some, today it is part of the panoply employed by the best jewellery-watch makers, adept at working it like a precious metal. In the 1980s-90s hi-tech materials appeared on the scene and now top the charts, with some watchmakers even developing their own alloys. Lastly came the vogue for mixing materials, the basis of the fusion concept introduced by Hublot's CEO Jean-Claude Biver, who through the Big Bang watches has generalised the notion of combining materials, colours, tradition and modernity. This has brought technical improvements to watches but also a real revolution in design terms. The textures, grainings and colours of hi-tech materials make it possible to create totally new aesthetic effects that change the watches'visual impact. A NEW COMPOSITE FROM PANERAI The star materials this year are titanium and ceramic, the latter having burst on the scene to wild applause. Carbon too is used, particularly forged carbon, ultra-strong and light. Silicon has enabled spectacular advances in movement design since it reduces wear and also the need for lubrication. Many watchmakers have therefore produced silicon escapements and Breguet has perfected a revolutionary new balance spring that equips this year's Tourbillon Tradition. Omega uses a silicon balance spring for its Aqua Terra Annual Calendar. Other materials being used include rubber, palladium and zalium along with surface treatments in PVC and DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) that are self-lubricating and resist abrasion, adhesion and corrosion. This year's big news came from Panerai. The Italian jeweller has launched an exclusive new composite initially developed for use in the aeronautical industry and to manufacture spare parts for cars and motorbikes. It is made by electrochemically coating aluminium with ceramic, which makes it harder and lighter than ordinary ceramic, steel or titanium. Its hardness means the most complex patterns and designs can be applied and as it is also inert neither its structure nor appearance ever alter. The 47mmeight-day Radiomir Composite Marina Militare that Panerai has brought out is already collector piece ! juin 2010 www.cotemagazine.com WATCHES SPECIAL MONTRES 83