5. Bracelet Art Deco « breloques » serties de diamants et pierres de couleur, circa 1920 6. Bracelet ¨tank¨ or jaune 18 carats, 1940. Demi-parure « feuilles » or jaune 18 carats serties de diamants & saphirs, signées Raymond Yard, 1940. Art Déco : Au lendemain de la Première Guerre Mondiale, l'Art déco s’impose comme un mouvement artistique extrêmement influent dans les domaines de l'architecture et du design, mais touche plus ou moins toutes les formes d'arts. L’Art déco tire son nom de l'Exposition internationale des Arts Décoratifs et industriels modernes qui se tient à Paris en 1925. L’influence du contexte artistique de l’époque a joué un rôle majeur dans l’émergence de ce mouvement. Les ballets russes, le cubisme ou le fauvisme sont autant de courants qui ont inspiré les créateurs Art Déco. Le style Art déco peut se définir par des lignes géométriques, des couleurs franches, une imagerie animale ou florale. La rose est très présente en bouquet, en corbeille ou en guirlande. Tous les métiers d’arts sont touchés par cette vague qu’il s’agisse de la décoration, de la joaillerie, de la verrerie, de l’orfèvrerie ou de l’architecture. Dans l’univers de la joaillerie, la période Art Déco se caractérise par des pierres très colorées – rouges, vertes, ou bleues – souvent gravées et ornées d’onyx. Les créations de cette époque se reconnaissent également par leur design géométrique. 6 5 In Geneva, Golay Fils & Stahl, jewelers and diamond merchants since 1837, propose a collection of vintage jewels acquired around the world. Melissa Wolfgang, whose passion is vintage jewelry, explains that she finds these rare pieces through private clients, antique jewelry exhibitions, and auctions. « When we are shown a piece of jewelry, we pay special attention to detail. Certain aspects allow us to determine whether we are looking at an authentic period jewel or a recently made reproduction, sometimes difficult to discern. This determination is essential to us, as we prefer to show our clients jewelry that tells a story, has history. In the market today, it is more common to find pieces such as earrings and bracelets. A beautiful necklace is scarcer. Each time I am shown a special piece I am mesmerised, the techniques of stone-setting, enameling, and general manufacturing of antique jewels are remarkable. » Jewels from the Art Decoperiod – circa 1919-1930 – have steadily been sought after by lovers of antique jewelry. Melissa explains that the enthusiasm for this period is not simply a passing fancy, but an ever-present constant. She tells us that today, pieces ranging from the 1930’s-1950’s era (« retro ») , essentially in yellow and rose gold with few or no stones, are very desirable. Their geometric designs, cubic and linear, often bringing to mind the famous architect Le Corbusier, are very coveted. The big names ; Cartier, Mauboussin, or Tiffany have created some of their finest pieces during the Art Decoperiod, remaining much sought after by private clients and collectors alike. An additional facet of this notable Geneva address consists in buying « old-cut » diamonds ; these charming stones often having a history of their very own, which are later re-set into more contemporary or custom creations. Following World War I, the Art Decomovement – its name derived from the « Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs » held in Paris in 1925 – became an artistic influence in architecture, design and all forms of decorative arts. Inspired by various artistic contexts ; the Russian ballets, cubism and fauvism all played an important role in the emerging Art Decomovement. In jewelry, the Art Decostyle is distinguished by its use of geometrical lines and bold colours, often depicting animals or flowers. The rose is often present in the formof bouquets, in baskets or garlands. Saturated coloured stones – rubies, emeralds, sapphires – often carved and paired with onyx, combined with their linear simplicity is the epitome of the Art Decojewel. During this period, decorative arts as a whole were seen with fresh eyes. décembre - janvier 2011 www.cotemagazine.com TENDNANCE VINTAGE 35